In addition to modeling the sugar industry, I also have an interest in narrow gauge bush logging.
I started these freelance timber bolsters sometime in 2017, and work
continued sporadically until their recent completion. I never bothered
to document the builds, as they were mostly made up as I went, and I'd
no idea if they'd even run at all.
They're not based on any particular prototype, but I did draw a lot of characteristics from some far superior modeling, by user "GTB" on the Gardenrails Forum, and from JR in Tawa, respectively.
The frames are pine from a couple of broken-up dish racks from the local cheap shop; dyed in the usual way by soaking in a mixture of alcohol, a little meths, and cheap acrylic paint. The logs are from the "veneer" of remaining bushland over the back fence, cut from newly-fallen or trimmed branches.
Chain is brass stuff from Evilbay.
Couplings are picture hooks cut down, reshaped slightly, blackened and painted. A pair of 6-link chains, and a pair of 1.5mm sheet steel drawbars were made to couple these together.
The tie bars were a pain to make and fit. They're 2mm brass wire, with the ends threaded M2; all a bit overscale. The alignment of holes for them isn't great either. But, this being timber tramway rollingstock, I could get away with far worse..
For the pivot assemblies, I copied JR in Tawa's excellent design, and they work quite well. The dummy coach-bolt heads are just cut-down HO track nails.
The wheelsets are Binnie 24mm, with their 3mm axles running in laser-cut acrylic axleboxes from Harecroft. I don't know how the acrylic might hold up over time, but they've been lightly lubricated with 20-50 engine oil, thinned (so it more readily wicks into the bearings) with a few drops of 3-in-1.
The axleboxes were drilled through prior to gluing to the frames, then track nails fitted in the drilled holes, to reinforce the glued joints.
The "metalwork" is represented by Tamiya's Nato Brown, with weathering powders applied over it. Makes for a quick and easy, yet surprisingly realistic finish. Unfortunately, the subsequent protective clearcoat has obscured any trace of powders. So I'll have to (at some point) reapply the powders much more heavily..
The running surfaces of each wheel was painted with Tamiya's Gunmetal, which I'm sure will wear off in short order. For now however, it looks quite reasonable to my eye. I can't justify the expense, but Slaters wheels with their stainless tyres, would've been a better-looking solution.
The logs are "loose" on the bolsters, being retained only by the brass chains.
One of this wagon's wheels is wobbly, due to it's axle hole not being reamed concentrically. I'll have to replace that wheel. Considering I've over 200 Binnie wheels already, and this was the first and only one with a problem, and they're so cheap - I see absolutely no reason to be bothered. If anything, it's an excuse to buy another packet, just to have them sit around as yard clutter!
One of this wagon's wheels is wobbly, due to it's axle hole not being reamed concentrically. I'll have to replace that wheel. Considering I've over 200 Binnie wheels already, and this was the first and only one with a problem, and they're so cheap - I see absolutely no reason to be bothered. If anything, it's an excuse to buy another packet, just to have them sit around as yard clutter!
The chains are retained by loops bent from floral wire, held captive by M2 hex bolts at the ends of each bolster. The bolt holes in the bolsters were drilled slightly undersized, and the bolts screwed in, to form a crude thread in the wood by force. This way, the bolts can be unscrewed and the chains removed, on the very rare occasion I may want to remove the logs.
On the opposite end of the bolster, the chain loops around another bolt, and doubles back on itself.
A crude "6" shaped hook is fitted to the end of each chain, and hooks back into itself. This has to be done with a pair of needle-nose pliers, taking care not to overstretch and break the chain or bolsters. It's every bit as much of a pain as it sounds. Because of this, I don't intend to remove the logs anytime soon, but I do want to retain the ability to do so.
For the third bolster set, I wanted some variation - and to use up some spare IP Engineering whitemetal "Hudson" axleboxes. Wheels are 20mm Binnies.
I've painted numbers under each bolster for easy identification.
In a few years time when I can eventually build a permanent line, I plan on never taking locos or wagons off the track unless maintenance or repairs are needed; Instead, building secure, lockup storage sidings in an easily-monitored place.
For now however, these wagons need protection for storage, and visits to other railways. Shoe boxes and the like, are usually perfect for this.
Sometimes it's easier to make a box to fit. The black permanent marker rectangles are because this dodgy lid only fits one way around.
I know the boxes look like shit, and although I did think of making nicer ones from foamboard, the cardboard does it's job well enough. That's all that really matters.
16/06/2019
Test running the bolsters on some temporarily plonked-down track. The little Malcolm Moore struggles a bit with these, but they roll well enough. They'll usually be pulled with an LGB Stainz anyway.
Predictably, the wobbly-wheeled one derails on points, so can't be tested till it's wheel is replaced. The other two pairs ran faultlessly..
..Even over ruined track that some dickhead stepped on. That dickhead may well have been me, for all I know.
I'm still surprised at how well the bolsters negotiated the undulating lawn. I think that's mainly come down to JR in Tawa's ingenious pivot design.
Although I'm very happy with these and would love to have more, I sure as shit don't want to build them!
Right little bastards to make.
Instead, I think I'll compliment these with some more flat wagons..
